Edited by Helen Linford
email: helen.linford@onecoms.co.uk
 
Search:  


 
The trade only magazine for department store buyers and executives


   

 

Mon, Feb 6, 2012 11:10 PM
Fashion for mind, body and soul
Fashion for mind, body and soul

A new cultural mindset is influencing design throughout the sports and performance-wear market for 2011.    

For the Autumn/Winter 2011 season, changing patterns of consumption within the active and performance apparel markets form the overall theme of ‘The New Equilibrium’. With then end of consumer decadence, ‘The New Equilibrium’ creates a stable path for future growth, bringing renewed opportunities for brands. Consumerism has entered a new phase; today’s active customer is adapting to a new model for living based on a future that combines science and technology with social cohesion and collective influence. A new globally connected culture has evolved, producing a refreshed sense of community. As the environment continues to be the defining issue of our age we are set for an energy revolution and a plan of action with longevity firmly in mind. Brands and retailers must therefore adapt to emerging patterns of consumption, utilising design to deliver originality, quality and transparency through all levels of the supply chain.Autumn/Winter 2011 explores an instinct for harmony and stability, while design embraces innovation. Three trends are tailored specifically to the active and performance apparel markets. Synergy considers a new lifestyle ideal of pragmatism, simplicity and community inspired by the socio-ecological ideology and the minimal yet inventive design of Scandinavia. In contrast, Primal reflects primitive instincts for survival and values ancestral practises and customs, while celebration of the natural elements provides optimism in the face of adversity. Finally, in Innovate we establish that science will provide the ultimate technological solution. In design, a formula of defined aesthetics and intelligent materials accelerate the pace for a new cycle of production and consumption, emphasising sustainability and an efficient future for the consumer, retailer and brand. 

Synergy 

In Synergy a new era of pragmatism, simplicity and efficiency is dawning. A fresh model for living is sought across the globe, as we move away from the past decades of excess and heady capitalism and look to the Nordic states for inspiration. The regeneration of urban spaces harmonises with a contemporary and metropolitan way of living; innovative design meets a classic Scandinavian aesthetic for precise minimalism that still retains a sense of warmth and homeliness.As we acknowledge that the environment is the defining issue of our age, the realisation that we can no longer ignore the human race’s impact on the planet prompts radical change for a sustainable future. A conscious return to a collective approach sets the scene for a future of community decision making, collaboration on an international level and a more human touch to the issues facing the world in 2012.An intelligent approach to design sees Synergy embody a sleek aesthetic, with an unmistakable nod to the accomplished designers of Scandinavia. As a collective, these designers have embraced the evolution technology, developing a wide range of disciplines that reflect a consciousness of our effect upon the environment. The result is a simple and honest beauty that reflects the need for a dramatic lifestyle purge.Within the sportswear market, Synergy focuses on watersports, running and winter sports such as skiing and snowboarding. Inspired by the Northern Lights, colours are an active array of metallic pink, nova purple and star grey sprinting across the night sky giving an intense physical edge. Coupled with turf green and vibrant turquoise, these appeal to the senses. The urban street scene also influences this palette with the juxtaposing of urban greys with graffiti inspired neon hues. Active trends, focused within a watersports range, explore the streetwise appeal of surfwear. Contrast colour piping, bold panelling and quilting are key for a look that is simple with vivid and colourful prints and graphics. Advances in fabrics and technologies for water sports inevitably centre on keeping warm and staying dry. For water sport fanatics, the development of a high-tech heating system aims warmth at the body's most important internal regions when extreme cold conditions are encountered. The H-Bomb elements are placed along the spine to warm the core and encourage the body to keep pumping blood to its extremities. Alternatively, Canadian company Sun Dry Technologies have launched a range of quick drying clothing, including bathing suits and board shorts.For design targeted at runners, reflective clothing is key and a feature that can create eye-catching and creative patterns, contouring the body and trimming panels. Strategically placed air vents and mesh panels allow the wearer’s skin to breathe while tech features include built in iPod slots and controls. Laser cutting is utilised both for smooth hemlines and decorative patterns, tying in with a trend for 'radical handicraft' techniques. Adidas has developed a range of clothing encompassing Techfit Powerweb technology. The garments aim to control muscle vibration therefore reducing tears and minimising the effects of delayed muscle soreness. Winter sports such as skiing and snowboarding are also explored. For women, femininity is retained through thermal base-layers that feature decorative top-stitch detail. Fur trim, printed linings and unusual quilting creating texture are all key features. Function is essential to extreme sports with bonded seams, elastic cinches, zipped trouser legs and concealed pockets. Layering is vital for snow sports. The company 3M has introduced a new thinsulate insulation material that aims to minimise odour. X-Static fibres have antimicrobial properties that provide outstanding warmth but also unique odour control technology. In response to customer demand, W. L. Gore and Associates have designed Gore-Tex gloves with the latest X-Traft technology. By permanently bonding the liner of the gloves to its inserts, a high level of grip is maintained and is also waterproof and breathable, essential in a sport involving a sustained physical activity in extreme conditions.

Primal 

In Primal a renewed sense of spiritualism evokes an affinity with the natural world and the rediscovery of the instincts buried deep within us all. Many modern lifestyles have lead to a detachment from our environment, pushing us towards an empty, cold future and a despondent attitude towards the inevitable crisis of climate change. The rebirth of a new spiritual civilization suggests a resourceful and nomadic living close to nature, stimulating a drive for creating beauty and progress out of disaster.The emergence of ‘open religions’ promotes feelings of optimism, together with a collective concern for the health of the planet. Artificial materials are discarded in favour of the dishevelled bounties of our natural habitat, while a celebration of the elements and their awe-inspiring power brings an energizing appreciation of the planet as a pulsing, breathing organism. A conscious effort towards environmental change encourages exploration of ancient worlds and practices of old, especially those of pagan worship and culture. A need for authenticity results in an earthen and imperfect aesthetic with fossils, geological patterns and natural textures providing inspiration. An admiration of the allure of raw materials and the intricate patterns, rich colours and inspiring textures of our natural environment translates into a trend that sees beauty in the flawed and the primitive.Primal focuses on the sports of tennis, yoga, pilates, martial arts, hiking and climbing for the season. Raspberry and lime gold combine with natural shades of clay and stone, to replenish the human spirit and broaden horizons. An athletic union of hi-tech purple and field-track brown is offset with understated shades of oatmeal and olive evoking a sense of primeval energy in the competitive world of sports.Primal looks to meditative sports such as yoga and pilates for the female activewear market, resulting in a relaxed and elegant aesthetic. Elements of dance bring a fashionable edge with scooped and off the shoulder necklines, silk-jersey mix harem pants and soft drapes. For the male market, equally expressive martial arts become the focus. Folded waistbands, gathers, ruching and contrasting flatlock create subtle texture to simple and comfortable garments. Enlarged armholes allow for freedom of movement and add an urban edge to the style. Rough finishes and frayed edging reference the natural aspect of the trend. Close fitting garments and figure hugging styles are essential for both yoga and pilates where the instructor examines muscle shapes and posture. The great outdoors also provides essential inspiration for the Primal range. Hiking, climbing and sports that embrace the elements require tough materials, durable fabrics and functional features. Chunky soles, fur trims and padded garments hint at a nomadic warrior influence, while military touches are added with epaulettes and patches. Reinforced knees, elbows and shoulders allow for wear and tear with clips, clasps and hooks allowing for a utility ethos. Outdoor sports brand Mountain Hardwear has introduced dry out technology to their latest range of gloves. A windproof and breathable membrane is added to the outer layer of the glove, which also adhered to its eco-credentials by being non-toxic and fully recyclable. 

Innovate 

In Innovate, the race is on for new discoveries and solutions, with an accelerated sense of urgency as science is heralded as the saviour of a trouble stricken age. This contemporary trend marks an optimistic outlook towards a new existence, free of economic doom and gloom, while rediscovering the benefits of an intellectual approach. Keen observation and understanding enables us to learn from past events and push for a better attitude to global advancement.A new sense of balance is being addressed, without the emotional responses and restrictions of spirituality. Nevertheless, science is given a human, organic touch with a fascination with nature under the microscope and intelligent approaches to improve living and wellbeing. Pioneering techniques are espoused to further the development of medicine, discovery and analysis. Instruction and calculation are seen as the remedy to adversity with generative design, algorithms and quantitative methods determining a resourceful and effective result, no longer needing to equate to financial gain, but to a positive, considered way of life. Education is exalted, reflected by a clean, well thought-out aesthetic that draws inspiration from instructional diagrams, scientific symbols and the beauty of magnified nature. Refracted light patterns and chemical colours synthesize with organic structures for an invigorating vision.Innovate focuses on the popularity of urban sports, such as dance, BMXing and skateboarding, in addition to the beauty of golfing and also the rise in the importance of tram sports. Vibrant pink, petrol blue and luminous lime all escalate through the palette releasing a surge of energy. This, contrasted with shades of golden brown and olive green, creates a mellow counterbalance. Neutralised core colours of mushroom and barley offset sci-fi inspired neon accents, resulting in a futuristic and highly stimulating palette ideal for progressive sportswear. The dynamism of light is reflected within this energetic trend. Loose silhouettes are key, with dropped crotches, batwing sleeves and oversized hoods. Graphics are effective in this phase with a vibrant palette enhancing colourful printed panelling, linings and body-contouring piping. Contrast mock layers add to the urban cool, accessorised with slouched peaked beanies, sweatbands and high-top trainers.Taking on a tailored aesthetic, the scientific influence of the Innovate trend is exemplified through a golfing range. Contemporary versions of the classic argyle pattern use clipped in prints, distressed finishes and a fresh and modern colour palette. Contrast colour panelling is another key feature along with linear stitch detail to reflect the laboratory inspiration behind the trend. The classic preppy style of golf wear is reinterpreted with asymmetric pocket details, quilted gilets and mock layered polo shirts. Fabrics for golfing are developed to give the wearer's body breathability and comfort, such as a high quality cotton by Sea Island. Coolmax is an effective fabric designed to keep the wearer dry and cool in humid and wet conditions; making it a seasonal all-rounder.Panelling is the main feature of Innovate’s versatile range aimed at team sports, with unusual shapes, ribbed inserts and contrast colours. Quirky collar styles are essential, developing alternatives to the usual polo or round neck shapes. Linear stripes running through ribbing, flatlock that emphasises panels and angular seams reflect the mathematical inspiration of the trend. Functional features such as poppered trouser legs add a practical element to a mix and match range. For sports where the athlete is constantly active, fabric that adds to comfort and performance give garments a high-end focus. Techno-fabrics such as ClimaLite® have been developed to sweep sweat away from the wearer's skin yet remains soft and lightweight. Similarly, Dri-FIT mesh enhances the breathability of the garment, essential during active team sports.

www.mudpie.co.uk


Printer-friendly format

Use the following icons to post this article on social networking and bookmarking sites:



Login and voice your opinion!