Tangerine Throw by The Wool Company.

Wool has long been the forgotten treasure of the retail industry, abandoned as bulky and old-fashioned in favour of new and manmade materials. However over the last year there has been a resurgence in its popularity and wool is set to be a key fabric in 2010-11 in both fashion and housewares. DSB looks at why it is back and how it can be used to achieve knitted perfection.

News broke this January that the Prince of Wales is officially attempting to rebrand wool. The fabric that has - over the last two decades - come to be associated with grannies, itchiness and novelty jumpers. The announcement of his aim to reinvent wool as both eco-friendly and fashionable came appropriately in the month that saw snow and ice sweep the country, and made many of us pull out our thickest jumpers.

For centuries wool served as the backbone of the UK’s economy and a staple fabric for clothing, providing clothes that kept wearers warm and dry. However as advances in central heating came, the need for thick sweaters diminished. Man-made fabrics became popular due to their affordability, versatility and ease of care and quickly wool came to be seen as old fashioned and unnecessarily bulky. Fast-forward to 2010 and as the UK’s economy struggles to grow and emphasis is placed on reducing our carbon footprint, it seems the ideal time to be reminded of the fabric’s benefits. A natural and sustainable fibre, wool offers great eco-credentials and whilst Australia and New Zealand are two key exporters, the UK’s existing farming industry offers great potential for the proposed sea change in attitudes. Interest in sustainability and British heritage is likely to lead to a surge for wool-based products, particularly when consumers prepare for Autumn/Winter 10.

Fashion is of course a core market for wool and increasingly designers are showing how it can be used to create chic and wearable pieces for every season. Savile Row staple Gieves & Hawkes has long been using it to produce luxury suits that are beautifully tailored and built to last, and judging from their vibrant Spring/Summer 10 collection, there isn’t a granny’s knitting needle in sight! Fashion icon Jaeger prides itself on using natural fibres such as silk, cashmere angora and wool. Lilian Bucke, Head of Buying for womenswear, menswear and accessories at Jaeger explains why, “Wool is one of the most versatile of the noble yarns. Its natural resistance to creasing, its superb drape and saturation of colour make it the ultimate all round, all-seasonal fabric: from lightweight tropical wools, right through to suiting, tweeds and coatings.” Bucke believes a fashion-forward look can be easily achieved. “Wool can be made sleek through weaving and finishing processes. It can adopt a satin sheen or a boucle texture. It is incredibly versatile and can be used across the board, in knitted fine-gauge merino undergarments right through to heavy winter twills,” she says.

Designer Bronwyn Lowenthal, owner of Lowie has long been a wool-convert, “I love working with wool. It’s comfortable, warm, durable and can be made into a myriad of pattern and textures.” She started up Lowie in 2002 to showcase what soft wools and hand knitting could achieve. “I love designing things from wool knit that might ordinarily be thought of as a woven piece; a tea dress, a jumpsuit, a fitted jacket and matching fitted skirt, a city girls’ work dress with a twist. It can be chunky and light, can be pleated and gathered and it’s easy to mix different weights,” she says. Lowenthal says that the perception of wool is already changing, “What used to be perceived as granny’s homemade jumper can now be a sexy piece of outerwear which says ‘I’m comfortable with who I am and I know I can stay cosy and be sexy at the same time’.  Thick knit jackets and ‘coatigans’ are becoming especially popular, in particular with [those] that spend a lot of time rushing around and don’t want to be constantly taking a heavy woven coat off and on.”

Whilst clothing is an obvious use for wool, it is an extremely versatile material that can be used for anything from reusable nappies to home insulation and housewares is another vital area for growth within this trend. The fabric’s natural ability to insulate and absorb moisture makes it a popular choice for bedding that can be used year-round. According to Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), wool bedding can offer an improved night’s sleep by drawing moisture away from the skin, and can calm allergenic problems due to its ability to inhibit bacteria. Furthermore, it’s naturally flame resistant which is crucially beneficial to upholstery, carpets, rugs, blankets and other soft furnishings. AWI reports that due to this quality, wool often complies with international flammability regulations without the need for additional treatments. Its soft finish and safety credentials make it a favourite in bedding for babies. Its durability and sumptuous texture add to its appeal as a carpet fibre and there is a growing choice when it comes to design. Styles include Felted, Berber, which is chunky and retro, Tweed which combines dyed and undyed yarns, and Heather, which is smooth and elegant, as well as contemporary printed designs. A range of types such as bonded, knitted, woven and tufted, mean it is easy to design carpets that can match your consumers’ interiors and lifestyles.

The 2009 trend for nostalgic home-comforts has taken on a new edge that sees it become sleeker, more luxurious and contemporary. Combined with an ongoing interest in investment buying, this could mean fabrics such as wool have the potential to be big money spinners this year. With John Lewis and Marks & Spencer already planning to launch initiatives in the autumn, now is the time to ensure you are wool-savvy.

Image 1: Throw and pastel baby blanket by The Wool Company.
Image 2 & 4: Stylish use of wool by Jaeger.
Image 3: Gieves and Hawkes latest collection.